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Identification Guide

Sterling silver vs. silverplate.
Here's how to tell.

The most important question for anyone who inherited silver. The answer determines whether your pieces have significant value or are primarily decorative.

Understanding the Difference

Sterling silver vs. silverplate: what you need to know

Most inherited silver falls into one of two categories: sterling silver or silverplate. The difference is fundamental. Sterling silver is a precious metal with intrinsic value. Silverplate is a thin coating of silver over a base metal. Knowing which you have is the single most important factor in understanding what your inherited silver is worth.

What is sterling silver

Sterling silver is an alloy of 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% copper. The copper is added for strength — pure silver is too soft for practical use. Because sterling is mostly silver by weight, it has real intrinsic metal value that rises and falls with the silver market. A heavy sterling tea set or a complete flatware service can be worth hundreds or thousands of dollars in silver content alone, before any consideration of craftsmanship, age, or maker.

Sterling is identified by specific marks. American sterling is typically marked "Sterling" or "925". British sterling carries the lion passant — a small image of a lion walking to the left — along with hallmarks indicating the city, date, and maker. French sterling is marked "950" (a slightly higher purity standard). If you see any of these marks, you have genuine silver.

What is silverplate

Silverplate is a base metal — typically copper, nickel, brass, or an alloy called nickel silver — coated with a very thin layer of silver through electroplating. The silver layer is measured in microns. It looks like silver on the surface but contains very little actual silver by weight. When the plating wears through, the base metal underneath becomes visible, often appearing as a coppery or yellowish color on edges and high-contact areas.

Silverplate marks are distinct from sterling marks. Common silverplate marks include "EP" (electroplate), "EPNS" (electroplated nickel silver), "EPC" (electroplated copper), "silverplate," "quadruple plate," and "A1" (a quality grade). Despite the word "silver" appearing in some of these terms, silverplate is not sterling silver and has minimal precious metal content.

How to check marks

Finding the mark is the fastest way to identify what you have. On flatware — forks, spoons, and knives — turn the piece over and look at the back of the handle. The mark is usually stamped near the top of the handle or just below where the handle meets the bowl or tines. On holloware — bowls, pitchers, platters, and trays — flip the piece over and check the underside or bottom. On tea sets and coffee pots, marks are typically on the bottom or near the base of each piece. On candlesticks, check the underside of the base.

Marks can be small, shallow, and worn from years of use and polishing. Use good light — natural daylight or a bright lamp at an angle — and a magnifying glass. Some marks are only legible under magnification. If a piece has no visible marks at all, it may be unmarked sterling, unmarked silverplate, or another metal entirely. A specialist can often determine the composition from photos of the piece and its wear patterns.

The ice test and magnet test

Two simple home tests can provide clues, though neither is definitive. Sterling silver is an exceptional conductor of heat. Place an ice cube on the surface of the piece — if it is sterling, the ice will begin melting almost immediately, noticeably faster than on other metals. This works because silver has the highest thermal conductivity of any common metal.

The magnet test is even simpler. Sterling silver is not magnetic. If a strong magnet (a refrigerator magnet is usually too weak — use a rare earth magnet) sticks to the piece, it is not sterling. However, silverplate over a non-magnetic base metal will also pass this test, so a piece that is not magnetic is not necessarily sterling. These tests are useful for quick screening but are no substitute for reading the marks or getting a professional opinion.

Coin silver

Coin silver is a third category that sometimes appears in inherited collections, particularly in older American estates. Coin silver has a purity of 900 parts per 1000 (90% pure silver), slightly lower than sterling's 925. It was the standard for American silver before the mid-1860s, when the sterling standard became dominant. The name comes from its origin: silversmiths literally melted down silver coins to make flatware, holloware, and other objects.

Coin silver is marked "coin," "C," "D" (for dollar), or "900." Pieces by known early American silversmiths can be quite valuable — both for their silver content and as antiques. Pre-Civil War American coin silver flatware and holloware by documented makers is actively collected and can command strong prices at auction.

When silverplate IS valuable

While most silverplate has limited resale value, there are exceptions worth noting. Early Sheffield plate — made before about 1840 by fusing a layer of silver to copper through heat and pressure rather than electroplating — is collectible in its own right. Sheffield plate predates the electroplating process and represents fine craftsmanship. Quality examples, particularly large holloware pieces, can sell for meaningful amounts.

Some silverplated holloware by quality makers retains value for decorative use — large serving trays, elaborate centerpieces, and well-designed tea services can sell to decorators and buyers who appreciate the form regardless of the metal content. Certain pieces by specific European makers are also collected, particularly ornate 19th-century holloware with strong design quality. But these are exceptions. The vast majority of inherited silverplate flatware has minimal resale value.

Quick Reference

  • Sterling marks: Sterling, 925, Lion passant, 950 (French)
  • Silverplate marks: EP, EPNS, EPC, A1, Quadruple, Silver on Copper, Silverplate

Photo Tip

Flip the piece over and photograph the marks. Use good light and steady hands. A magnifying glass helps read small marks. If the mark is hard to see, try angling the piece under a bright lamp — marks often catch the light at certain angles. Photograph every different mark you find, as pieces in the same set may carry different marks.

An Honest Take

What usually isn't valuable

Being straightforward about what typically has limited resale value helps set realistic expectations before you invest time in evaluation.

Silverplate in any condition

Silverplate flatware and tableware, regardless of how beautiful or well-preserved, has minimal resale value. The silver content is negligible and the secondary market is flooded with supply. Complete silverplated flatware sets in original chests regularly sell for very modest amounts. Individual pieces of silverplated flatware have almost no resale market. This is one of the most common disappointments in estate evaluation.

"German silver" or "nickel silver"

Despite the name, German silver and nickel silver contain no silver at all. These are base metal alloys of copper, nickel, and zinc that have a silvery appearance. They were widely used for flatware, serving pieces, and decorative objects. The misleading name causes frequent confusion. If a piece is marked "German silver," "nickel silver," or "EPNS" (electroplated nickel silver), it contains no precious metal.

Unmarked pieces that look like silver

Many metals can look like silver to the untrained eye — nickel, chrome, polished pewter, and various alloys all have a silvery appearance. Unmarked pieces without any identifiable hallmarks or stamps are often not silver at all. While some early or handmade sterling pieces may lack marks, the absence of marks is more often an indication that the piece is not precious metal. A specialist can help distinguish unmarked sterling from look-alike metals.

Weighted sterling

Weighted sterling candlesticks and some holloware pieces are made from a thin shell of sterling silver filled with concrete, pitch, plaster, or another weighting material. They feel heavy and substantial, but the actual sterling silver content is a fraction of the total weight. A pair of "sterling" candlesticks that weighs two pounds may contain only a few ounces of silver. Weighted pieces are worth far less as scrap than their total weight would suggest, and they are generally less desirable to collectors than solid sterling examples.

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Common Questions

Frequently asked about inherited silver

Look for marks on the back of the handle, the underside, or near the rim. Sterling silver is marked with the word "Sterling," the number "925," or — on British pieces — a lion passant (a small lion walking to the left). If you see "EP," "EPNS," "EPC," "A1," or the word "silverplate," the piece is silverplated, not sterling. A magnifying glass helps with small or worn marks. If no mark is visible, a specialist can often identify the composition from photos and context.
Silverplate has very limited resale value in most cases. The silver layer is extraordinarily thin, so there is no meaningful scrap metal value. Some silverplated pieces have decorative or functional value — attractive serving pieces, quality holloware, and early Sheffield plate (pre-1840) can sell for modest to occasionally significant amounts. But the vast majority of inherited silverplate flatware and tableware sells for very little on the secondary market, regardless of its original cost or sentimental value.
EPNS stands for Electroplated Nickel Silver. It means the piece is made of a nickel silver base metal — an alloy of copper, nickel, and zinc that contains no actual silver — with a thin layer of silver applied through electroplating. EPNS is one of the most common marks on silverplated items. Despite the word "silver" in the name, nickel silver is a base metal alloy. EPNS pieces are not sterling and have minimal scrap value.
Coin silver is an alloy of 900 parts silver per 1000 (90% pure), compared to sterling's 925 parts per 1000 (92.5% pure). It was the standard for American silver before the mid-19th century. Silversmiths literally melted down silver coins to fashion flatware and holloware. Coin silver is typically marked "coin," "C," "D" (for dollar), or "900." Pieces by known early American silversmiths can be quite valuable as both antiques and precious metal.
Technically, yes, but the return is negligible. The silver layer on electroplated items is measured in microns — it is extraordinarily thin. Recovering the silver requires a chemical process, and the yield per piece is so small that most scrap dealers either refuse silverplate entirely or pay pennies per pound. Sterling silver, by contrast, has real scrap value based on weight and the current spot price of silver. Separating sterling from silverplate is the critical first step when sorting inherited silver.
The location depends on the piece type. On flatware (forks, spoons, knives), check the back of the handle near the top or just below where the handle meets the bowl or tines. On holloware (bowls, pitchers, trays), check the underside or bottom. On tea sets and coffee pots, look on the bottom or near the base. Marks can be small and worn from years of use and polishing. Use good light and a magnifying glass. Photograph any marks you find for evaluation.